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October 9th - Joshua Tree with Ted and Sascha

Andy:   Ted and Sascha, long time climbing friends since college, arrived this morning after an all night drive from San Francisco.  Ten years ago this week, Ted had his bachelor party in Joshua Tree, and every year at this time he returns to celebrate.  Many more college friends are arriving this weekend, but we'll miss them as we leave for Catalina.  Climbing with Ted and Sascha was more than enough entertainment for us, however.

Today was also HOT.  The hottest day yet.  So hot even standing in the sun was a very, very poor idea.

Went out to Conan's Corridor, which is a narrow (15 feet wide) corridor with climbs going up one side.  We figured this was a guaranteed way to avoid the sun.  Just our luck - the sun was pointed directly through the corridor - so the first hour of climbing was a sweat fest. Climbed Colorado Crack (5.9) and Gem (5.8+), both absolutely stellar cracks - at least when our hands weren't greasing out of them.

Eventually, we were cooked out of the corridor, so we crawled back into our vans like desert animals and slept the afternoon away.  Of course, it was 110 degrees in our van, so sleep was a bit rough and sweaty like the climbing.

Wendy and I finished the climbing afternoon off with Strawberry Jam (5.9), another fine Joshua Tree sandbag. I think this climb must be named for what your hands, knees, and elbows look like at the end. One damn hard 5.9 if you ask me.  And my bloody knees and elbows are proof of this fact.

Bonus excitement on the climb.  As I was grovelling up through a wide section, plenty concerned already about the difficult climbing, I glanced down and noticed part of my climbing knot had worked its way loose and there was a cam (piece of climbing gear) inserted through a loop in the knot.

Uh oh - not good.

Nothing like hanging on a manky hand jam, in a slightly overhanging crack, yanking a cam out of your untied knot and then retying the knot. Very exciting indeed.  Last time I leave less then 2 feet of slack at the end of the knot!

The boys, hanging out in Ted's Westy.  That's an overexposed rock in the lower, right - sorry



Wendy, climbing studette

Andy, finishing climbing Gem.



Another fine Joshua Tree sunset.  If you look carefully, you can see the crescent moon in this photo.  And no, this wasn't a photoshop job - the moon was really there!

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