Wendy: Yesterday was a long day (got back after dark), so today we opted for the more leisurely morning and a shorter and easier climb. Andy picked Lotta Balls (5.8) from the guidebook, a mellow, 4 pitch route. I think he picked it because he wanted to show me he had "lotta balls" (which he has proven at certain points in our lives), but in reality today's route was named because of the rock. Imagine a blank face covered with malt ball sized nubbins. That's what this climb was all about.
Rorschach test for climbers...what does this rock make you think of (see picture of the rock below)? Andy: Gobstoppers. Marbles. Bouncy balls like the kind you use to play jacks. Wendy: Malt Balls. Milk Duds. The little pom poms on the back of short socks. What does it all mean? Probably nothing, although maybe it says we love our mothers, had good childhoods, and are especially relaxed, to the psychologists out there. I had a not so unusual craving for chocolate all day, suggesting I was seeing what I was wanting. The test still needs some work, but when you are alone in the desert this is what happens.
Today we were also the obnoxious yuppies you hate to see in a fancy restaurant. We went to a steakhouse to fulfill a craving for meat, and proceeded to walk through the joint yapping on the cell phone, dressed like climbers with hats and floppy sweatshirts, reading climbing books while eating our salads. Everyone around us was dressed up. The valet dude said they'd be ok with how we were dressed (his words were something like "If you'll pay, they'll feed you no matter how you look), so in we went. Needless to say, they seated us way in the back of the restaurant, perhaps trying to hide us from the more attractively dressed clientele. Andy almost knocked over a waiter with a tray full of steaks on his way out, and overall I think they were glad to see us exit. The steak was excellent, though.
Tomorrow Chris and Suzie (brother and sister-in-law) fly in for a long climbing weekend. Can't wait!!
Andy: Wendy did all the talking today, but I do want to put in a blatant plug for the coolest new climbing gadget we've ever used. Only climbers need continue....
Let me introduce the Metolius Rope Hook (company product page). It's a lightweight, cloth (with a wire frame) hook that you bring on multipitch climbs - particularly those with hanging belays. It creates a nice, convenient location to butterfly coil loops of rope on while you are belaying the follower up. For the next pitch, the rope is coiled and ready to roll for the next leader, or if you're not swapping leads you only need to rotate the coils in the hook and the other leader is set to go. No more rope hanging at your feet, or coiled across your lap, or dropping into cracks, or flaking and reflaking the rope, or endless tangles slowing you down.
It's a simple, amazing little gadget, particularly how it
removes the requirement of flaking the rope if you're not swapping
leaders.
Check out the picture to see it in action, and pick up two (one for each
belay today). We love them, thanks Metolius!
Andy, finishing the first pitch of Lotta Balls. Can you see some of the little balls on the face? The next pitch was covered with them.
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Imagine climbing 50 feet with only these little balls for your hands and feet. Fun stuff!
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Wendy, finishing pitch 2 of Lotta Balls
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Wendy, heading up pitch 3 of Lotta Balls |